Venice
Does one ever forget their first time they visit Venice?
For many it is arriving by train at the Stazione Santa Lucia. It is when you walk out through the doors of the train station that the Grand Canal and the visuals of Venice hit you with full force.
My first trip to Venice was back in 1980s. We have visited it many times since. From the time of my first trip to our more recent trips, the most significant change is the number of tourists that visit the city each day.
Still, despite the crowds, it is a unique experience. After we saw the special video/TV series that Franceso da Mosts's produced on the history of Venice our interest was re-sparked even more. Most recently we visited Venice in 2009 and we will be spending almost a week in 2010.
So obviously much older, and it is beyond me where all the hair went, but ever since my first trip to Venice (as above) I enjoy every opportunity to return.
During the 452 invasion by Attila the Hun' people fled the mainland and occupied some of the small islands in the lagoons. The lagoon provided a degree of protection. By 466 the people formed a structure for self-government.
About 772 the first Doge was elected and the unique government of Venice took shape..
People first settled on the Island of Torcello.Building a cathedral in 639. Attacks in the lagoon forced people to move around and after 810 most of the people moved to the islands of the Rivo Alto - these are the island that make up Venice.
Venice extends over 117 different islands and linked together by over 15 different canals and some 400 bridges.
Venice grew, merchants became powerful forces, and to support the merchant economy fleets developed and Venice became a power of the sea. The Empire of Venice too shape by the year 1000.
By the end of the 1300s Venice controlled mainland areas that included Padua, Vicenza and Verona. Later their mainland control would extend even further inland to areas such as Bergamo. Venice needed these ares to protect its overall trade routes.
By the end of the 1400s Venice started into its decline and in 1508 there was an agreement by Spain, France, the Holy Roman Empire, the Papal States and Hungary to join forces to stop the forces of Venice.
Architects such as Andrea Palladio (1508 to 1580). He became very influential.
There are still about 18 villas designed by Palladio that are located in the Veneto area. Many are open for visits.
We have toured a number of them.
Five villas considered to be the most important are: Villa Barbaro (pictured above) , Villa Cornaro, Villa Emo, La Malcontenta and La Rotonda.
It was in 1562 that the Sumptuary Law declared that gondolas of Venice must be black. That still lives today!
The final blow to the Venice as an independent republic was Napolean's attack. In 1797 the Council of Venice surrendered the city. 512 voted, five with held their votes.
So it ended after 1070 years. Napolean gave Venice to Austria and the city remained under Austrian rule until 1866 when Venetia (Venice and the Veneto) were ceded to the new formed Kingdom of Italy. At that time, Venice became the capital of the new province of Venezia.
Venice is a city of water. The buildings of Venice are all supported by oak and pine piles that are driven deep down into the ground below the water. The soil is water-soaked. There is no oxygen, and the wood piles do not decay.
The Grand Canal is considered the main street of Venice.
The system of canals and walkways have names of which some are unique to Venice.
Other canals leading into the Grand Canal are called "rio" or "rii" (plural).
The maze of walkways through the city are called "calli".
There are in addition to these basics other names of locations routes, such as rio terra (filled-in canal), piscina (filled-in pool), a fondamenta or riva - a quay.
A Ruga is a street lined with shops and a sottoportico (pictured to the left) is a walkway that passes under a building.
A square in Venice is a campo. Only the grandest, St. Mark's is a piazza.
There are two smaller areas called piazette to the side of the basilica and front of the Doge Palace.
There are six main districts of Venice:
- San Marco, by the piazza of that name (pictured to the right).
- Castello, by the Arsenal
- Cannaregio, by the Ghetto
- San Polo, but the church of that name
- Santa Croce, near the Piazzale Roma
- Dorsoduro, by the Accademia on the southwest bank.
There is much to see, and the list that follows is just a sample of the things to see.
St. Mark's
The Basilica of San Marco was built over several centuries. It is a mixture of Byzantine, Roman and Venetian architecture.
Venice choose St. Mark as their patron saint as St. Mark, with his ties to Rome, as a way of demonstrating independence from the Byzantine Church. St. Mark's remains were were stolen from Alexandria and taken to Venice.
The Doge has the church built as a tomb for St. Mark. Having the tomb with St. Mark created a great economic advantage for Venice. The winged ion armed with a sword is the symbol of St. Mark and it became the symbol for Venice.
St. Marks holds the Pala d'Oro (10th - 14th century AD) a spectacular altarpiece. Small scenes are set in a gold encrusted with jewels. It was commissioned in Constantinople by one of the Doge of the 10th century. There were panels added to the original piece.
Until 1807 it was the private chapel of the Doge, and after that date it became Venice's cathedral.
Doge's Palace
This was the Doge's residence, the seat of government and the palace of justice.
The original structure was built in the 9th Century and it had fortified walls.
Fires and rebuilding have changed to the palace is a rather unique structure.
The palace we see today was built between 1309 and 1424. The gate facing the piazzetta was added in 1442 and leads to a central courtyard.
The palace was damaged in 1574 and luckily in the rebuilding they remained true to its original style even though the famous architect Palladio offered another way of rebuilding the palace.
The walls are a soft pink colour which take on a beautiful hue in the evenng. In the hot bright mid-day sun the building can look almost wshed out in colour. But see it in the evening.
The two statues (Mars and Neptune) that are on the top of the Grand Staircase represent Venice's dominance over land and sea.
Bridge of Sighs
Built in the 17th Century, this bridge leads from the old prisons in the Doge's Palace to the New Prisons which were located across the small canal. Its name is because one could hear the signs of the condemned as they walked across the bridge.
Rialto Bridge
The Rialto Bridge is perhaps the most famous of the bridges that cross the Grand Canal. It was built between 1588 and 1591. Cargo ships would travel up the canal, stop here and unload their merchandise. There were stores on each side of the bridge.
St. Mark's Campanile
Work began on this in 9121 and it was altered in 1515. The bell tower outside of St. Mark's collapsed in 1902. It was rebuilt and the tower we see today dates to 1912.
Basilica of Santa Maria dell Salute
Across the lagoon, this church stands and forms an important part of the overall image of Venice. It was built in 1631 at the end of a plaque. The plaque killed off almost a third of the population of Venice.
Scuola Grande di San Rocco (Confraternity of St. Roch)
Campo San Rocco, San Polo
One year we visited some of the art schools.The San Rocco has large marble columns on the outside. When you go inside, be prepared to have goose bumps. The inside is decorated by famous artist Tintoretto. He worked for 23 years decorating the school.
There are some 50 paintings by Tintoretto. When we where there you could hold mirrors to be able to view the ceiling paintings. Now there are mirrors on some of the tables so you can look down at the mirror, rather than twisting your neck to see the celing.
We are not talking just art on the walls.
